Our Neighborhood

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Goodbye, Salamanca

Tomorrow we drive to Manhattan, after four action-packed days on the reservation which included:

- The Dirty Diner
- Kayaking
- Hiking the Gorge
- Allagany State Park
- Indian flat bread at Archie's house
- A trip to Grandma and Granpa's

Britt's dad really took care of us and we've had a great time. Check out these final few pictures-- the last of our trip across the country.

The Senecas

We've been staying with Britt's Dad in Salamanca, NY, who has treated us to some of the best views (and food) of our whole trip. It's been a spectacular finish to a great three weeks.

All of Salamanca is within the borders of the Seneca nation-- the only American town of its kind. The Senecas moved here after being displaced by the Kinzua Dam project, which flooded thousands of acres of their ancestral homeland, despite their efforts to fight the project in court with the help of the Quakers, the support of Johnny Cash, and a signed treaty from George Washington in their back pocket. While the U.S. burned houses and dug up cemeteries, the Seneca nation watched in disbelief as America once again failed to honor her word. I had never heard of it until this week.

Don't Know Much About Tobacco

Ask most Americans to name our country's most important crop, and you'll probably hear something about wheat, corn, or if you're lucky, cotton. But these answers miss of one the biggest pieces of the puzzle. Tobacco's story is at many juncture's America's story-- from early treaties with Native Americans, to the thriving colonies, through the Revolutionary and Civil Wars, and up to the present day. In the highly addictive and indisputably dangerous forms in which it is distributed today, our country's most important crop has become wildly unpopular-- except, of course, with smokers. Still, it remains one of the federal government's biggest money makers, as it has been for centuries. And remarkably, all these years later it still figures prominently in negotiations between sovereign Native American nations and the United States. This one little plant is a very big deal.

For all these reasons (and a few more) I was thrilled to have a rare opportunity today: seeing the inner workings of a cigarette factory. You might never have the chance, so check out the pictures.

Niagara Falls

For those who haven't been: it's bigger than you think, and well worth the visit.

Sounds Like Fun

As far as state fairs go, there is one that has long reigned over all the rest. For well over 100 years Des Moines has hosted Iowa's version of America's favorite summer civic event, widely considered to be the best in the country. If you're thinking of the fair as a place to see hypnotists, listen to rock bands, and ride a huge roller coaster, think again. Try something more like this: "Won't you have some of my canned peaches? They won second place at the fair last year." Or perhaps: "Jenny was one of only three fourth graders in our county to compete at this year's fair."

Not only is this your father's fair, but it's your grandfather's and great-grandfather's as well. It's E.B. White's fair-- the same sort of fair that recognized one humble, radiant, terrific pig. And as luck (or providence) would have it, we happened to be passing through town on opening day.

Upon arriving we pulled onto the lawn of a house across the street from the grounds-- cheaper parking and an opportunity to make a new friend. Two brief, frenzied hours later, we were back in our car, satisfied yet hungry for so much more.

Luckily, we missed all the presidential hopefuls-- an appearance at the fair is a must for anyone hoping to finish strong at next year's caucus. In an election year, Iowa's fair is arguably one of our country's most important national events.

If you're looking for America, it's right here waiting for you. You're only one pork chop away.

Back in Wheaton

We spent the weekend with Scott and Leslie Mathews, close friends from college. They were kind enough to put us up, entertain us, and let us do fifty loads of laundry since everything we owned reeked of Yellowstone campfires.

Scott works as an investment analyst and Leslie teaches Kindergarten. They both grew up in Wheaton and have been together since high school. Incidentally, they were also the only reason this California kid made it through two cold, dark Illinois winters.

Together we introduced Brittany to all of Chicagoland's best eating, from Augustino's to Oberweis. Thanks Scott and Leslie!

Famous Faces

The story of this controversial, unfinished monument is riddled with big egos, selfish politics, and bitter disappointment. I had no idea. Go and see for yourself if you ever get the chance.

Forgotten Towns

Marmarth, ND has a population of 140. Situated on the state's smaller Route 12, rather than on the insterstate, it doesn't see much traffic. A boarded up train depot still bears witness to when Marmarth was a bustling railroad town. Now, there's a restaurant and a gas station.

Towns like this one abound in the high plains. Many of them, forgotten by the world, have turned to escpapism. We drove through one Montana town where we saw a huge "Meth Kills" mural painted on a building. It seemed unique until we saw the exact same sorts of murals, posters, gas station signs, and advertisements in virtually every town we passed through. All of the towns had populations under 500, and all of them had been seemingly consumed by methamphetamine use.

The single largest advertiser in the state is the Montana Meth Project, which reaches somewhere between 70-90% of teens three times a week with their "Not Even Once" message. It has become one of the most studied local ad campaigns in the country.

Motorcycle Madness

Maybe you've heard of Sturgis. We hadn't. That's why we foolishly believed, for a brief moment, that Mount Rushmore is just a biker's paradise, perpetually crawling with Harleys. "Look at all these bikes," we mused. "Wow, bikers must really love South Dakota."

Well, they do-- sort of. It's their favorite place come every August, when over half a million motorcycle enthusiasists descend on a town of 6,000 for the world's largest motorcycle rally.

How do that many bikers fit into a town that small? Again, a question we failed to ask, until we were confronted with the cold, hard truth: they don't. Instead, they spill over into the next town... and the next... and the next. Which is why there wasn't a single motel room available for over 300 miles. This really put a damper on our brilliant "see-Mt. Rushmore-at-sundown-and-get-a-room-right-afterward" plan, which was reluctantly replaced with the far less enticing "drive-all-night-until-we-get-to-Iowa" alternative. Enjoying a $1 salisbury steak in a Super Wal-Mart parking lot was a welcomed early-morning respite from driving.

North Dakota Plains

There really are still places like this.

Buffalo

If you hang around Courtney Gause, you hear about Buffalo all the time-- but have you ever seen one? Hayden Meadow is full of Bison bellowing, galloping, and rolling around in the dirt. I really enjoyed seeing the Bison, but not as much as I enjoyed eating them. We bought ground bison twice from a local grocer and grilled it over the open fire. Sweeter and subtler than beef, it was a real treat. The two people I wish could have shared the experience with us:

1) Brian Olsen, who would have most enjoyed cooking a unique, tasty meat outdoors.

2) Jonathan, who would have most enjoyed eating an unique, tasty meat (outdoors).

UPDATE: Check out this new article on the rise of buffalo as a meat praised by nutritionist, environmentalists, and chefs alike.

Be Careful

This warning sign makes clear the potential dangers of Yellowstone's thermal features, which pose a threat to all visitors regardless of national heritage.

Yellowstone is Like Another Planet

A lot of people think Yellowstone is about landscapes, or geysers, or wildlife. It isn't: it's about hot springs. These aren't the type of hot springs that you sit in (they'd kill you); rather, these are the sort of hot springs you marvel at. Flourescent oranges, greens, and blues bubble up from the deep. You have to see it to believe it. It's the only place I've ever been where I felt like I was somewhere in outer space-- these mysterious pools truly look otherworldly. These pictures don't do it justice; I wish Mary was here.

But they aren't just for looking at. Every time you hear about DNA testing in a criminal case, think of Yellowstone's hot springs. The methods are only made possible by Thermus Aquaticus, a rare bacterium found living here. If these pools hadn't been preserved, DNA testing as we know it wouldn't exist.

The springs (and geysers) are the real reason that the Yellowstone area was preserved in the first place generations ago. There are more 'thermal features' in Yellowstone than the rest of the world combined. At the time of it's preservation, abundant wildlife and pristine wilderness were run-of-the mill in the American west; what made Yellowstone special were the crazy pots of boiling, shooting, and color-changing mud and water. Now, generations later, the preservation of wilderness and wildlife is a side-effect, made notable by their new scarcity.

Arriving

We arrived at Yellowstone at 6:00 this morning after 2,000 miles, 6 tanks of gas, and a lot of road grime.

Idaho

Like Wyoming, except maybe better.

Wyoming

The latest census estimates put the population of Wyoming at 515,000-- in other words, less than the size of Irvine and Santa Ana put together. Imagine the inhabitants of these two cities alone spread out across all the California land from the Mexico border to San Francisco, and this will give you an accurate picture of Wyoming's density. Hemingway once said, "There are two places I love: Africa and Wyoming." If you've been, you can understand where he's coming from.

Denver, CO

We spent the first two nights of our trip in a town outside Denver, where we were graciously hosted by Jay and Lauren Williams. Jay and Lauren moved to the Denver area to plant a church. The name of their town is Reunion, Colorado-- it's a beautiful planned community that markets itself as a place to find belonging and happiness, kind of a like an amped up Ladera Ranch. Pray for Jay and Lauren as they reach out to those in their community who are looking for something more.

A tour of Reunion was followed by lunch, a stop by the hospital to visit a friend of Jay's, and a trip into the Mile High City. Lauren is a great cook-- look for her on the food network.